New Brisbane

Isis Brasserie

446 Brunswick Street,
Fortitude Valley

Bookings: Ph 07 3852 1155

For one of Brisbane’s more renowned and prestigious restaurants, Isis appears rather understated from the outside. Save for the very large Eye of Horus on its heavy glass door it appears small, cosy and quiet_but first impressions can be deceiving.

Upon arrival, the maitre de swept the large glass door aside and ushered us inside. We had an early booking (which I had been lucky to get), and so it was not as busy as I expected.

The interior of the restaurant was suffused in a warm, dim glow, given off by the waning light outside and low-hanging elaborately-shaded lamps inside. Maroon sunblinds, which shaded the outside seating, doubled as blinds across the windows, secluding the interior from the to-and-fro of Brunswick Street traffic and pedestrians. Shimmery brown curtains cornered parts of the dining area in, while strategically angled mirrors opened the space out. The overall effect was an elegant, discreet setting, with a vibe of calm and retreat.

We were directly seated at a table to the right of the waiter’s bar. Comfortably firm and ergonomically curved couches lined one side of the table and backed onto the kitchen. From here we could watch the industrious chefs work in near silence as they produced dish after elaborate dish for the wait-staff to distribute. I’ve never seen a kitchen work in such harmonious silence - a factor which was essential because the kitchen, hidden behind a wall of see-through blinds, opened out to the dining room.

Glasses were filled with water, menus and extensive wine lists were brought out and an appetiser_a single, succulent piece of beetroot and feta-filled ravioli_was served as a taste test while we decided on food and wine. The wine list alone occupied us for ten minutes. A section was devoted to every type of wine: Pinots, sparkling reds, sparkling whites, Rose, Riesling, Chardonnays, spirits, beer and much more. All wines were priced from about $50 a bottle to $500 a bottle.

Eventually we chose a Rocheford Pinot Noir ($58 a bottle), a light and round flavoured wine that didn’t overwhelm the palate and served as a good accompaniment for both the entrées and mains. Light jazz music played in the background as we lounged back, tested our wine and observed our bread being served from a basket that never seemed to leave the waiters’ sides.

The service was faultless, very discreet, conscientious and friendly. The staff took care not to interrupt guests but anticipated their every need. Water was refilled, beers replaced, napkins refolded while absent.

Entrees features a range of delectable goodies (for example,
Sautéed gnocchi stuffed with wagyu beef, a honeyed turnip puree and black cherry vinegar [$21.50];
Savoury goats cheese cheesecake, pickled mushrooms, spaghetti of zucchini and thyme grissini [$21.50];
Herb crusted veal, stracchino tortellini, tomato and olive dressing [$21.50]).
But the main meals took precedence on this occasion.

Main meals sat at $34.90 and offered a selection of meat-based meals with the assurance of a vegetarian menu upon request. The Slow cooked duck in pomegranates, roasted sweet potato, yoghurt and coriander proved to be the most delicious on our table. A rich, dark sauce filled the plate, two duck wings delicately perched amidst softly-textured sweet potato and zesty splices of coriander. Best of all were the pomegranate seeds, those sweet, crunchy fruits which contrasted so pleasingly with the rich duck flavours, drizzled in saucy juices. The simple combination of ingredients united into rich flavours.

The baby chicken stuffed with soft polenta and caponata of vegetables was also a delicious dish, warm and rounded in flavours. Presentation was immaculate with a ring of roasted vegetables sprinkled precisely around the golden-brown roast chicken (served whole).

The Rare seared peppered S.A. venison, red wine poached pear, jellied consommé, sautéed root vegetables was yet another masterpiece.

A cross-hatched stack of venison oozed tongue-melting flavours accompanied by a pear. The pear, sweet and saturated in its own juices and red wine secreted away a gelatinous consommé - equally saturated in juices and wine. This was encased in its core. The lightly-roughened textures of the pear met with the melting texture of the consommé imbued with wine, creating a lethal combination. It also added a little spice to the butter-soft medium rare venison.

A curving set of wooden stairs descend from the main dining room to private dining, lounging areas and a bar downstairs. The long back-lit bar housed a single barmaid and lonesome figure swirling his ice cubes and spirits around his glass. The scene made me want to slip into a backless, slinky black cocktail dress and a pair of elbow-high gloves, tease my bee-hive and elegantly smoke from a long cigarette holder.

I entertained this fantasy while waiting to ‘powder my nose’ before returning to our miraculously cleared tables_with napkins refolded of course.

Desserts (all $14.50 each) included simple but luxurious-sounding dishes such as an Amaretto soufflé, roast peach and almond milk sorbet; Simple Lindt dark chocolate tart, fresh orange and white chocolate sorbet; Fresh figs, whipped ricotto, roasted pistachios and homemade vincotto. I’m sorry to say we opted for a chocolaty selection of petit fours ($28) instead. For the life of me I could go no further and had no wish to ruin my entirely satisfying meal by eating myself into unconsciousness. The petite fours were a sweet retreat from the serious deserts and more than sufficed.

Isis was a restaurant for serious dining. By serious I mean it was the experience as much as the food, the place served to please more than just the appetite. By serious I mean remarkable and impacting, designed to make an impression on the diner and their dinner companion/s. My advice for Isis is book ahead, dress nice, be prepared for fine wine and many forks and knives.

By Alice B.

Piccies thanks to Pipe Dream Graphics